2 Sea Days

As we head south from Nuuk, Greenland to St John's, Newfoundland the icebergs become fewer and fewer. The weather doesn't change much with lots of fog, some rain, very little sun and temperatures mostly in the 40's. The seas remain under 2 meters. Even if we passed another ship, it is doubtful we would be able to see it. At times the bow is not visible from the  Crown Lounge due to the fog.

We have had 2 extra pilots on board since Halifax. Specifically experts in icebergs. One of them is on the bridge at all times whenever we are within 200 miles of Greenland, a Danish requirement of cruise ships calling on Greenland. Trained by the Danish government, but hired and paid by Royal.

One of them did a presentation about his job and how he fits in on the team. Very similar to harbor pilots, except his expertise is ice and icebergs. This is strictly a summer job for him, coinciding with the cruise ship tourist season. His next job is captain of a cruise ship expedition to Antartica. He did not share what ship. Ironically it is in the news that the Carnival Spirit cruise ship had an unplanned encounter with an iceberg in Alaska this week. There was no reported damage to the ship.

We are fairly used to having to change time as we cross time zones. I did it twice a day for 35 years as I lived in one time zone, and owned my business in another.

When we fly across time zones we just set our clocks when we get to our destination, and our cell phones change automatically.

On cruise ships it is a little different, usually the process being dictated by the captain. On the trip from Boston to Greenland we set our clocks ahead 3 hours. The first hour change was done at 2 AM. A very common procedure. The next two were done at 11:15 AM.

I can rationalize why, but it sure is non conventional. Of course there is no cell service at sea, and internet time can depend on where the connection is made back on land.

Heading south, we moved our clocks back one half hour last night at 2:00 AM, and we will move them back another hour tonight to get ourselves on St John's time, one of a handfull of time zones that are a half hour different from the adjoining time zone.

Yes, the time on the Royal App is all messed up. At least we were warned that it would be.

As we retire for the night it is still foggy. The forecast for tomorrow in St John's is 70% chance of rain. The seas remain under 6 feet.

Mon Sept 16 - Nuuk. Grenland

We sort of arrive twice in Nuuk this morning. During the night a passenger is in need of medical attention and is loaded into a small boat and rushed ahead to Nuuk. We arrive hours later at about 8:00, still an hour ahead of schedule.

By 8:30, as passengers disembark, there are breaks in the fog. There is no passenger terminal here, just a little open space carved out of a commercial port. Many passengers have excursions. Busses are in short supply and some tours that are supposed to be by bus are by taxi instead. The issue being the taxi driver is not a guide, and has no idea where to go. Many passengers are disappointed.

We are fortunate, we get a large van instead of a bus, and retain a very good guide. A local gal in her early twenties.

Roads are very limited in Nuuk, a city of about 20,000. You can not drive outside of the city to any other village, only around Nuuk, a 10 minute drive from one side to the other.

The entire country of Greenland has 3, yes 3 stoplights. We see all of them.

Not that Nuuk is small, but the elementary school, the cemetary, and local jail are major sighteeing destinations. Don't laugh, the view from the jail would be the envy of many, sited on a hill overlooking the bay and mountains, the view is fantastic.

Apartments rent for $2,000 to $3,000 per month. Single family homes are sparse, commanding 7 figures. Taxes are about 42% of income. Average before tax income is about the equivalent of $40,000 usd.

Much of the housing has been built by the government. There is a lot of construction in progress including expanding the airport runways.

Radishes and potatoes are the only vegetables grown in Greenland. Everything else must be imported, mostly from Europe. There is only 1 tree in Nuuk, as the ground is all rock. At least you don't have to worry about mowing a lawn.

Snow averages a couple feet per year, a big decline from a decade ago. The ice cover in Greenland is melting at an alarming rate. Much faster than anytime in the past.

Most of Nuuk's energy comes from hydroelectric plants. Surprisingly the ship refueled here. Either an economic or regulatory requirement.

After our 90 minute tour we head back to the ship.

Just as we board, the fog rolls in again shrouding everything in a heavy cloud blanket. We were lucky with the weather. Many cruise ships this season were unable to dock because of ice or fog. We are the last scheduled for 2024.

The featured entertainment tonight is a movie. We watch the icebegs float by from the Schooner Bar.

Just after midnight the captain announces that the Northern Lights are visable off the stern starboard side of the ship.

Hundreds of passengers, including yours truly head to the upper decks. Passengers in pajamas, robes, bare feet.  Anything you can imagine facing the cold 35 degree winds to get a glimpse.

Well glimpse was all it was. If it weren't for cell phones being more sensitive to low light levels, most passengers saw nothing.

Back to sleep, the next two days are sea days as we head to St John's Newfoundland, not to be confused with St John's New Brunswick where I spent several days in the local hospital after being one of those medical emergencies while traveling on a cruise ship.

Sun Sept 15 - Sea Day

It remains foggy most of the night and morning. No chance of northern lights last night.

The temperature hovers at about 40. By early afternoon the fog clears and the sun is bright. An unexpected observation. I have glasses that automatically darken with UV light exposure. Well here they get much darker than in Florida. One would guess that the UV component of the sunlight must be much stronger here, but actually it is much less. It is the cold temperature that makes  the glasses turn darker when exposed to UV. Learn something new each day.

The bridge spots some whales, the passengers less fortunate. I bundle up and head outside on deck 12, but only see multiple icebergs. 

The fog comes and goes.

BBQ ribs will be the choice for dinner tonight. Our waiter brings our menus and procedes to tell us there are no ribs. A provisioning snafu somewhere.  Considering the amount of provisons loaded each cruise it is a compliment that this doesn't happen more often.

While we don't hear any shows from the theater in our cabin, we do hear some musicians and dancers practicing late at night. Possibly in another nearby space or backstage.

The seas remain under 2 meters and we procede slowly. Tomorrow we will be in Nuuk, Greenland.

Sat Sept 14 - Qaqortoq

We arrive early and then tenders start taking passengers the short distance to shore. The ticket system appears to be working well.

The skies are foggy.  About 10 AM I experienced something that has never happened to me before. Tender operations were abruptly suspended. Hundreds of passengers were on shore, unable to return to the ship. The fog had become so heavy, visibility was reduced to a dozen feet. The ship and the harbor were invisible.

Nothing moved for about 3 hours. Passengers couldn't get to shore for shore excursions, others couldn't return to the ship.

I had decided to remain on the ship today so I wasn't affected.

By mid afternoon the sun burned off some of the fog, tender service resumed, and I was able to get some pictures of the village.

I later learned nearly everything was closed, the stores and cafes only being open Monday thru Friday. One of the tours visited personal homes where they sampled local foods. Very difficult to get to over steep rocky paths, but those that went enjoyed it.

Qaqortoq is the third largest city in Greenland with a 2024 population of 3224. Yes you read that correctly. If you count passengers and crew, this ship has more people.

The fog comes and goes. Passing icebergs are of all sizes, shapes and colors. Because of the ice, we will travel slowly the next day and a half to Nuuk, our next port of call. The air temperature remains around 40, and the seas less than 5 feet as we head North.

Fri Sept 13 - Nanortalik, Greenland

We arrive several hours early. The fog is heavy, and there is a light rain. The captain is a little disturbed because an iceberg is blocking the harbor. Tendering will be longer than expected.

At the southern tip of Greenland, Nanortalik is a village of a few thousand. We do not have a planned excursion, there are few offered. The rain ceases, and most of the fog lifts. The temperature is 41, time for the insulated coat under my rainproof jacket.

By noon there is no need for tender tickets, those that are going ashore already have. A short walk, pictures of the village and harbor, and back to the ship. Once on board a few pictures of the icebergs from deck 12.

The rain stays away for the remainder of the day.

The last tender returns by 7:00 and we are on our way to the port of Qaqortoq, Greenland, about a hundred miles further north on the west coast.

There are icebergs of various sizes and shapes all around us. Some look like castles, one a piramid, and most just big chunks of ice, some larger than our ship.

Tonight was the black and white gala event including pictures with the captain. Participation was minimal. Maybe a dozen men were wearing jackets. There is no show in the theater tonight, and Emma, the Schooner Bar piano player, has the night off.

A cabin about 10 doors down the hall from us had a major water line break. The guests were moved to another location, and repairs quickly made. It has been 3 days now and the fans are still in place drying the carpet in the cabin and in the hall.

Speaking of cabins I can now share that noise from the theater does not reach our cabin, but of course the hum and rumble of the bow thrusters does.

Time for a good night's sleep.

Missed by most passengers, including me, the Northern Lights were visible at 2:00 AM. Maybe we will have another chance in the nights ahead.

Sea Days

We have 2 sea days between Halifax and Nanortalik, Greenland. Weather varies from cloudy to partly sunny to heavy fog. Seas vary from dead calm to 6 or 8 foot swells.

The temperatures drop, and at first most areas of the ship are cold, but eventually warm to a comfortable level.

Participation in themed nights, including formal night is minimal at best. The Crown Lounge and Centrum remain crowded most of the time. By 11 pm everywhere looks like a ghost ship except for a trio playing for the lone bar tender in the Centrum. Yes this cruise has a more mature manifest of passengers.

The captain shares that we safely passed an iceberg in our path during the night.

The dining room food continues to be good, much better than Cunard, and service since the first several nights has been good.

Our waiter shares that couple 3 showed up late for dinner last night. The excuse: "we got lost". Mind you they were at least an hour and 45 minutes late. Just glad we did not wait for them.

Tomorrow we arrive at our first port at the Southern tip of Greenland.

Sept 10, Halifax

Halifax is a much larger, more commercial port than Sydney.  There are many shops, bars, and yes a brewery just outside the ship terminal. Even the Canadian National rail station is only a block away. The gangway is old and steep, going from deck 5 to the ground.

Where yesterday's tour was to the Alexander Bell museum for history enrichment, todays tour is purely scenic enrichment to Peggy's Cove.  Of course we get lots of history from our guide while enroute.

Sunny and 70 degres, the weather is perfect. Rain is forecast for later in the day.

Our bus is late arriving, and we depart 30 minutes late. Several places where we we supposed to stop were changed to a drive by. The hour and a half of time on our own at Peggy's Cove turned into 40 minutes, still adequate.

Peggy's Cove has had all the pathways and boardwalks updated during covid. Much easier to get around than when Lynn was here 7 years ago.

Just as we board the bus, the rain starts.

Traffic is very congested. We arrive back at the pier late, in fact 15 minutes after the ship was scheduled to leave the port. The reason you always are told to buy shore excursions from the cruise line. The ship waits for us and is underwsy 10 minutes after I board.

A quick change of clothes, and it is off to the dining room.

Our waitress tells us that the third couple told her last night to just get started with the rest of us as they may be late. Well they are, they don't show at all, and honestly not missed by anyone.

Pasta for dinner.

The production show is Scott Record. A talented entertainer we have seen before, but with mostly new material.

The seas remain slight for the most part, but the ship does exhibit some motion. I have heard no one complain though.

The next two days will be sea days.

Sept 9 -Sydney

Despite being diverted for an extra stop in Halifax, we arrive in Sydney and the ship is cleared on time.

Our tour isn't until late morning, so we wander the shops on the pier before our tour. Nearly everything is local handcrafts as opposed to the mass produced trinkets from china that one most often finds.

I was here about 7 years ago on the Vision. The 50 foot fiddle hasn't changed much, just faded in color. A local college student is doing a survey of visitors for a class project. I oblige. Reading between the lines I think his intent was to find out if visitors felt the shops were adequately staffed.

The Norwegian Gem arrives late in the morning. I don't know if they are on schedule, but many passengers are trying to find tours as they tell us their tours were cancelled by NCL.

The weather is better than expected, high 60's, sunny, and a light breeze.

Sydney at one time was a large coal mining and steel producing area, having one of the largest steel mills in eastern Canada.  Changing technology, and foreign competition basically forced the mills to close.

Our tour guide was excellent, first a worker in the mines then a college professor and now a part time guide. Tourism is a large part of the current economy. For those looking for fall colors, it is about 6 weeks too early.

An interesting tidbit, Sydney Australia streets and street names are exactly the same as here.

Back on the ship, a quick change of clothes and it is time for dinner. We ask our waiter to please help us finish in time to make the 7:15 show. An indirect way of telling her that service has been slow.  The third couple doesn't help us much. The woman is driven to talk so much she can't even bother to stop and read the menu or eat. She cuts off her husband everytime he attempts to speak. We have all met them. A person that just has to dominate and take total control of any conversation and make it just her.

Having had enough, the other four of us excuse ourselves so we can go to the show. The waiter did her part.⁷

The production show is, well a production show. We have seen it before but good just the same.

The seas are about 8 feet, enough that they slam against the bow with a muffled bang. Our next port is back to Halifax. Hopefully to dock and stay for the day.

Sept 8 - A Sea Day

Breakfast is in Giovanni's for Pinnacle guests, but only for an hour and a half ending when the main dining room closes. At closing time there are at most maybe 6 guests finishing breakfast.

4 more guests arrive after closing. Despite being very nasty to the staff, they still seated them. Couple one was the couple we spent several hours chatting with the previous day while we were waiting to board.

The other couple, I will call them couple 2, did everything they could to get in front of everyone else at every step of the boarding process yesterday. Ducking under barriers, cutting in line, loitering at the anticipated exit area instead of being seated as asked, etc. etc.

The seas are about 6 to 8 feet, more than enough to make the ship creak and groan and impart a gentle roll.

There are very few children, exactly as expected.

There is the usual top tier party, attended by many. 89 Pinnacle, 404 Diamond plus and 420 Diamonds.

The biggest surprise. Couple 2 is recognized for reaching Pinnacle. No wonder many passengers resent high level frequent cruisers when a passenger exhibits such rude behavior.

Shortly after noon the ships speed accelerates to over 20 knots. We are informed that a passenger needs immediate medical care, and his condition makes a helicopter evacuation not feasible. We are headed to Halifax to make an unscheduled stop.

Since we are scheduled to be in Halifax in 2 days many passengers are verbalizing that we should just change our itinerary and stay in Halifax. They just have no clue of the logistics involved.

The passenger transfer is quick and efficient, and the captain expects we will still be on time for our arrival in Sydney.

A third couple shows up for dinner tonight. Late, but here.

Service is slow, but we could have made the the 7:15 show, but decided on the Schooner bar instead. A young female piano player, Emma, OK, but nowhere near the caliber of Kelly.

The late show is still running when we head back to the cabin. Will we listen like it or not?  No, if you listen carefully, you can hear some noise from the theater but certainly none that is bothersome.

What we do hear is the bow of the ship plowing thru the waves. No problem for us, but probably bothersome for lite sleepers.

Tomorrow we are scheduled to be in Sydney.

Sept. 7, 2024 Headed to Greenland

It is still hot in Florida. I have jokingly been telling people I need to go to Greenland to cool off. Norway was cool but I expect Greenland to be much colder.

Packing is a little different. No swimsuit, a thermal insulated jacket, only long pants. A hat that will keep my ears warm. I forgo the suit, tie and dress shirts. I had enough of that on the Queen Mary 2, and formal nights on Royal are optional.

The alarm wakes us at 3 AM after three hours sleep. The house is secured and the driver arrives just before 4:00 to take us to the airport. Already busy, we check our luggage at the curb and proceed to security. TSA precheck really helps today. Maybe 20 infront of us instead of hundreds.

Cleared with little delay. There is always some because of all the foreign objects embedded in my body precluding me from the metal detectors and body scanners.

After breakfast and the expected wait we board the plane.

The flight to Boston is smooth and ontime. As we are on our final approach we can see the cruise ships in the harbor. Dr. Google has advised that a cab is our best option to get to the ship.

The streets by the port are very crowded. We are dropped off and met by someone to take our luggage. It is only a hundred steps to the terminal entrance.

We are spoiled in Florida with our modern cruise facilities. The terminal in Boston is in a centuries old freight warehouse, passengers are dropped off and picked up on the street.

We are early, but not the first. Some passengers arrived before 8:00. Intercruise workers are very nice, but highly disorganized. The day is not going as planned.

The Jewel waited an extra hour for customs agents to board to clear the ship when it arrived. This delayed disembarkation from the previous cruise.

It also was the day for an extensive coast guard inspection. A procedure that can be randomly scheduled without notice, or with several days notice as this one was. No one can board until the inspection is complete, and the Coast Guard has given its blessing to sailing.

About 1:45 passengers start getting emails that the inspection is complete and boardind will commence shortly.

Waiting passengers have been grouped by boarding priority. Those with special needs are first, followed by suite, pinnacles, "Key" passengers and then everyone else. Key passengers have paid extra for a number of perks including early boarding.

We are amongst the first to board, and head to the Windjammer for late lunch. Ironically we share the elevator with the coast guard. Having completed their task they are headed to lunch also.

The head chef prepares a special gluten free lunch for Lynn. I have a slice of roast beef and a few fries. Much better than the filet of tenderloin on QM2.

We head to our cabin, and find our luggage on the way.

Knowing this was not going to be a cruise to bask in the sun on balcony, I let Royal assign my ocean view cabin. Their choice: 3504, deck 3 all the way forward, under the backstage of the theater. Will the noise from the theater reach us? Time will tell.

Being a relatively late booking, some of my choices were limited. If we wanted early dining, we would have to share a table with others.

Table 449 is a table for 8, only one other couple arrives. Service is slow as always on the first night. The crew has had an exceptionally tough day given all the disruptions to the normal process.

About 6:00 we finally are underway, about an hour and a half late.

My southern fried chicken was good. We finish in time to catch the comedian in the theater at 7:15. He was also good, but in a diffetent way than the chicken

It was a long but good day. Need to set our clocks ahead one hour, robbing us of an hour of badly needed sleep.

The seas are 1 to 2 meters as we head north into the North Atlantic.