2 Sea Days

As we head south from Nuuk, Greenland to St John's, Newfoundland the icebergs become fewer and fewer. The weather doesn't change much with lots of fog, some rain, very little sun and temperatures mostly in the 40's. The seas remain under 2 meters. Even if we passed another ship, it is doubtful we would be able to see it. At times the bow is not visible from the  Crown Lounge due to the fog.

We have had 2 extra pilots on board since Halifax. Specifically experts in icebergs. One of them is on the bridge at all times whenever we are within 200 miles of Greenland, a Danish requirement of cruise ships calling on Greenland. Trained by the Danish government, but hired and paid by Royal.

One of them did a presentation about his job and how he fits in on the team. Very similar to harbor pilots, except his expertise is ice and icebergs. This is strictly a summer job for him, coinciding with the cruise ship tourist season. His next job is captain of a cruise ship expedition to Antartica. He did not share what ship. Ironically it is in the news that the Carnival Spirit cruise ship had an unplanned encounter with an iceberg in Alaska this week. There was no reported damage to the ship.

We are fairly used to having to change time as we cross time zones. I did it twice a day for 35 years as I lived in one time zone, and owned my business in another.

When we fly across time zones we just set our clocks when we get to our destination, and our cell phones change automatically.

On cruise ships it is a little different, usually the process being dictated by the captain. On the trip from Boston to Greenland we set our clocks ahead 3 hours. The first hour change was done at 2 AM. A very common procedure. The next two were done at 11:15 AM.

I can rationalize why, but it sure is non conventional. Of course there is no cell service at sea, and internet time can depend on where the connection is made back on land.

Heading south, we moved our clocks back one half hour last night at 2:00 AM, and we will move them back another hour tonight to get ourselves on St John's time, one of a handfull of time zones that are a half hour different from the adjoining time zone.

Yes, the time on the Royal App is all messed up. At least we were warned that it would be.

As we retire for the night it is still foggy. The forecast for tomorrow in St John's is 70% chance of rain. The seas remain under 6 feet.

Mon Sept 16 - Nuuk. Grenland

We sort of arrive twice in Nuuk this morning. During the night a passenger is in need of medical attention and is loaded into a small boat and rushed ahead to Nuuk. We arrive hours later at about 8:00, still an hour ahead of schedule.

By 8:30, as passengers disembark, there are breaks in the fog. There is no passenger terminal here, just a little open space carved out of a commercial port. Many passengers have excursions. Busses are in short supply and some tours that are supposed to be by bus are by taxi instead. The issue being the taxi driver is not a guide, and has no idea where to go. Many passengers are disappointed.

We are fortunate, we get a large van instead of a bus, and retain a very good guide. A local gal in her early twenties.

Roads are very limited in Nuuk, a city of about 20,000. You can not drive outside of the city to any other village, only around Nuuk, a 10 minute drive from one side to the other.

The entire country of Greenland has 3, yes 3 stoplights. We see all of them.

Not that Nuuk is small, but the elementary school, the cemetary, and local jail are major sighteeing destinations. Don't laugh, the view from the jail would be the envy of many, sited on a hill overlooking the bay and mountains, the view is fantastic.

Apartments rent for $2,000 to $3,000 per month. Single family homes are sparse, commanding 7 figures. Taxes are about 42% of income. Average before tax income is about the equivalent of $40,000 usd.

Much of the housing has been built by the government. There is a lot of construction in progress including expanding the airport runways.

Radishes and potatoes are the only vegetables grown in Greenland. Everything else must be imported, mostly from Europe. There is only 1 tree in Nuuk, as the ground is all rock. At least you don't have to worry about mowing a lawn.

Snow averages a couple feet per year, a big decline from a decade ago. The ice cover in Greenland is melting at an alarming rate. Much faster than anytime in the past.

Most of Nuuk's energy comes from hydroelectric plants. Surprisingly the ship refueled here. Either an economic or regulatory requirement.

After our 90 minute tour we head back to the ship.

Just as we board, the fog rolls in again shrouding everything in a heavy cloud blanket. We were lucky with the weather. Many cruise ships this season were unable to dock because of ice or fog. We are the last scheduled for 2024.

The featured entertainment tonight is a movie. We watch the icebegs float by from the Schooner Bar.

Just after midnight the captain announces that the Northern Lights are visable off the stern starboard side of the ship.

Hundreds of passengers, including yours truly head to the upper decks. Passengers in pajamas, robes, bare feet.  Anything you can imagine facing the cold 35 degree winds to get a glimpse.

Well glimpse was all it was. If it weren't for cell phones being more sensitive to low light levels, most passengers saw nothing.

Back to sleep, the next two days are sea days as we head to St John's Newfoundland, not to be confused with St John's New Brunswick where I spent several days in the local hospital after being one of those medical emergencies while traveling on a cruise ship.